BIG WAVE SURFING

First things first. This isn’t to be taken lightly cos it certainly ain’t for the feint hearted, and involves major risks. The guys and gals that fearlessly take on these monsters are exceptional thrill seekers who go to astronomical lengths to command and conquer. They push their bodies and their minds to the limits and train hard. Very hard. Surfing has indeed been taken to otherworldly heights by these superhumans… leaving most of us with only dreams of taking on a ridiculously steep face in a mega set at Maverick’s!

What exactly is it?

To be classed as big wave surfing you’re looking at starting around the 20ft mark, and far exceeding the 50ft mark if you’re prepared to travel, risk big and experience utter mayhem.

The big wave surfer favours using a gun, with the paddle in enthusiasts needing to opt for bigger boards than those going for the tow-in option. Tow-in boards have straps, like water skiing. Other considerations include leashes. Some swear by them… others avoid them totally, to dodge the chances of getting tangled and held down in the depths. But leash fans should be aware that there are special beasty versions available, designed and tested to meet the extreme demands of the big wave environment.

Spots

Alternatively, if you just wanna give your eyeballs a thrill, watch some major Teahupoo footage below! And if you’re far far away from all ‘the greats’ don’t despair - as you’ll see, even places like the chilly Irish coast can sometimes awaken too!

Best Teahupoo shots -

Teahupoo – inside the monster documentary

Big Wave Surfing in Ireland

Tow-in or paddle?

You sure need some guts to turn and paddle into one of the giants, and for years, limitations from guys’ minds and boards halted progress in taming these beasts.

Then Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner jazzed things up in the early nineties, by pioneering the tow-in trend. This method utilises jet-skis to propel the surfer into the monster. Whether you love or hate this development, it can’t be denied that it’s played a big part in accelerating the heights surfers can now easily attempt to undertake -in both the paddle and tow-in arenas. Watch Riding Giants for a good background on all this (find out more in our movies section).

Otherwise, below are a couple of clips showing the difference between paddling in and being towed in. Enjoy.

Paddle in session at Jaws

Tow in surfing in Portugal

Dangers

As you’re probably aware, the dangers of big wave riding are real, and formidable. The sheer force of wiping out can leave surfers with nasty injuries and if you’re unlucky enough to experience a multiple hold-down, you could be looking at a dangerously close touch with death. For some real life accounts, watch on:

Maya’s big wave story…

Greg Long talks about his Near Death Drowning Experience:

Our safety must for the big waves is really simple – Possess expert level surfing skills. Even with this requirement ticked off though, you’ve then got to have the determination to train to ensure you have increased body strength, stellar lung capacity and a zen-like mind to keep any fear in check.

Below are a selection of clips on how to prepare, but before you look, check out this neat article on the ten-commandments of big wave surfing.

www.surfertoday.com/surfing/9386-the-10-commandments-of-the-big-wave-surfer

Jet ski practise - Before daring to go anywhere near a real monster practise tow-ins extensively first... Watch Mercedes Maidana in action here.

Mark Visser shares his tips in these little beauts.

Training for big waves

How to hold your breath:

Shane Fontanilla talks drown proofing for big waves:

For a motivational look at world class big wave training, click on!

Get some insight into what goes down at a Surf survival course:

Riders

Shane Dorian’s best wave:

Mark Healy going left at Maverick’s

Peaking – Peter Mel @ Maverick’s:

Lastly, once you can ride these monsters you’ll probably want to record your awesomeness. For some tips on mounting a GoPro to your gun, watch big wave surfer Jamie Sterling’s tutorial.

Peaking - Peter Mel @ Maverick's: