Ocean Features

So you can pop up and stay on-board a while, but do you know what kind of break you’re riding, and can you understand the water well enough to try out new spots?

If your answer’s a bit sketchy, the pages & vids below will help you learn a little about types of break, and set you up with the basics so you can gain the all-important skill of how to read waves - oh so necessary for the best chance of catching and actually riding!

Background sci on how waves are made (for all of us who slept through class):

Basic: www.surfing-waves.com/waves/make_waves.htm

In depth: www.surfertoday.com/surfing/6760-how-is-a-wave-formed-understanding-swell-and-surf-forecasts

Types of Wave:

You need to know that there are reef breaks, point breaks and beach breaks… and that waves can peel left or right, and have different behaviours such as closing out. Check the surfing-waves link in combi with the vids to start to get it all straight.

Diagram Explanation www.surfing-waves.com/peeling_waves.htm

Watch & learn:

Reading the surf:

Now to move up a notch… we’re loving this set of vids from Surf Coaches. Nice & clear!! ? The first is a MUST for all of you just starting out… But as you get more into it, you’ll find that knowing about tides and swell forecasts will also come in handy.

How to read waves…

How to read Tides

Swell forecasts

Also reckon it’s good to know how to accurately brag about how big the wave you conquered last week was! Especially check out the brilliant geeky table at the end! Gold.

Measuring Wave size: www.yosurfer.com/content/meteorology_and_oceanography/how_to_measure_wave_size.htm

And here’s an idea from an inspirational guy in Perth - create artificial waves in the sea when it's flat…

http://mpora.com/articles/artificial-air-bubble-surf-reef

Nice one Troy! Hasn’t happened yet, but man, what a plan! :) Could well be a major improvement on the troubled man-made break at Boscombe, UK!